These are instructions on how to embroider the Freestanding Point Lace Doily or Insert. |
The design is available in 3 sizes: Large (5" x 7"), Mega (6" x 10") and Commercial (8" x 12") hoops. |
|
|
Large Hoop: Size: 129 x 129mm (5" x 5") Stitches: 38 573 Colors: 1
Mega Hoop: Size: 149 x 149mm (5.86" x 8.3") Stitches: 43 000 Colors: 1
Commercial Hoop: Size: 199 x 199 mm (8" x 8") Stitches: 56 738 Colors: 1
|
Stabilizers: We recommend to use water-soluble mesh, such as Vilene. Vilene D0102 is a non-woven dissolvable stabilizer which is imported into the US, is sold in large rolls and is sometimes packaged under different brand names. Some of these brand names are Fabri-Solvy by Sulky, Avalon Plus by Madeira, Wash-Away, and Aqua Magic. Film-like water soluble stabilizers, such as Solvy by Sulky, Avalon by Madeira and Badge Master are not suitable for Free-Standing Lace embroidery.
|
Threads: The thinner the thread, the finer the final product will be. That is why for this project we recommend machine quilting cotton thread, which gives bulk to the lace and makes it look hand-made. You can use 40-, 50- or even 60-weight cotton, you can use it both in the bobbin and in the needle. If you use 40-weight cotton thread for the needle, you can use 50- or 60-weight cotton in the bobbin.
We used Signature machine quilting cotton thread both in the needle and in the bobbin, but similar threads from other companies should work just as well.
The drawback of the cotton thread is lint. Please don't forget to clean the machine with a soft brush or compressed air after each stitch-out.
To get two-sided embroidery, use threads of the same color in the needle and in the bobbin.
|
Needles: We use size 80/12 embroidery needles and 80/12 metallic needles. Our experience shows that cotton thread used with metallic needles gives less lint. The needles should be sharp, so it's advisable to change them often. |
Most Importantly: ALWAYS make a test stitch-out and wash away the stabilizer. This helps you to select the threads, needles, stabilizers and settings of your machine correctly. It's very important to select the correct thread tension! |
Washing out the Stabilizer:
|
Rinsing away the stabilizer is an important step, because the lace can be stretched or distorted if this is done incorrectly. We recommend to use a foam board and stainless pins. Cut away the excess stabilizer close to the stitches. Take your time and carefully pin the lace's outer edge to the board.
Now place the board into a bowl with warm water. Leave the board in the water for at least half an hour. Change the water a couple of times.
Take the board out of the water and leave to air dry. Do not unpin the lace until it's completely dry.
|
The Doily:
|
The doily has a fabric center, made using applique technique. |
Hoop 2-3 layers of watersoluble mesh. Start the machine. It will stop after it embroiders the outline - circle - of the design. |
|
Cover the outline with a piece of fabric. You can use a small amount of glue (a regular glue stick is perfect) so that the fabric does not shift. Start the machine again. It will embroider the same circle outline and the outline of the motif over the fabric. |
|
With a pair of sharp scissors cut out the fabric outside the circle and inside, in the places shown on the picture below. Take care not to cut through the stabilizer! |
|
Return the hoop to the machine and finish the embroidery. |
|
Rinse the stabilizer, let the stitch-out dry. Press. |
|
The Insert:
|
Hoop the fabric with 1-2 layers of water-soluble mesh. Start the machine and embroider the first 2 colors - the circle outline and then the circle and the motif inside the cirle. |
|
With a pair of sharp scissors cut away the fabric in places shown on the picture below: |
|
Return the hoop to the machine and finish the embroidery. |
|
Wash away the stabilizer. Press. Lace insert will look great on table linens. |
|
Happy embroidering! |
Back to Freestanding Point Lace Doily or Insert
|
|