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The FSL Battenberg Petals Border is available in 2 sizes: for large, 5" x 7", hoops and for commercial grade, over 8" x 10", hoops.
For the large hoops, it's a set of 2 freestanding lace designs and one redwork design.
For commercial hoops the lace parts are combined into one design.
The lace parts should be embroidered several times to get an interesting edge lace, corner or lace inset.
To embroider this type of lace, please read our recommendations first.
Stabilizers: We recommend to use water-soluble mesh, such as Vilene. Vilene D0102 is a non woven dissolvable stabilizer which is imported into the US, is sold in large rolls and is sometimes repackaged under different brand names. Two of these brand names are Wash-Away and Aqua Magic. Film-like water soluble stabilizers, such as Solvy, are not suitable for Free-Standing Lace embroidery.
Threads: The thinner the thread, the finer the final product will be. That is why we recommend that at least one of the threads, either in the bobbin or in the needle, should be cotton, which gives bulk to the lace and makes it look hand-made. Embroidery polyester thread will make very fine weblike lace.
Embroidery rayon thread is too soft, it does not keep its shape and very often its color fades under the influence of chemicals from the watersoluble mesh.
If you are using 50- or 60-weight cotton, you can use it both in the bobbin and in the needle. If you use 40-weight cotton thread for the needle, you can use regular polyester bobbin thread.
We used Signature machine quilting cotton thread, but similar threads from other companies should work just as well.
Needles: We use size 80/12 embroidery needles and 80/12 metallic needles. Our experience shows that cotton thread used with metallic needles gives less lint. The needles should be sharp, so it's advisable to change them after every project.
Most Importantly: ALWAYS make a test stitch-out of the design and wash away the stabilizer. This helps you to select the threads, needles, stabilizers and settings of your machine correctly. DO NOT embroider several designs in one hoop.
With the set, you can make 2 different doilies of different shapes. Always start with a test stitch-out of one of the lace files. If you are satisfied with the results, embroider the file as many times as needed for the project.
Step One: To make the above doily, embroider each lace file four times.
Rinse the stabilizer and leave to air dry.
Press all parts with steam. On your working table, lay out the designs in a frame.
Manually, join the parts in the places marked in red. Use the same thread with which you made the embroidery.
Step Two: On a piece of linen, embroider the redwork design four times to form a square.
Step Three: Place the lace frame on the embroidered piece and pin in place.With a straight stitch along the inner outline of the lace, attach the lace to the fabric. Work from the right side of the doily.
Step Four: With a pair of sharp scissors cut away the excess fabric close to the stitch.
Step Five: Return to your sewing machine and using short and dense zig-zag, stitch over the raw edge of the fabric from the wrong side. Use thread of the same color in the bobbin!
You can also make an oval doily, shown on the diagram below. For this, embroider the lace files twice. Connect in the places marked in red. Then follow Steps Three through Five to assemble the doily.
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