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The FSL Battenberg Lace Midriff Insert is a set of 2 designs and their mirror images which should be embroidered and assembled into a lace embellishment for a dress or top, as described below.
The designs are for hoops not less than 10".
To embroider this type of lace, please read our recommendations first.
Stabilizers: We recommend to use water-soluble mesh, such as Vilene. Vilene D0102 is a non woven dissolvable stabilizer which is imported into the US, is sold in large rolls and is sometimes repackaged under different brand names. Two of these brand names are Wash-Away and Aqua Magic.
Film-like water soluble stabilizers, such as Solvy, are not suitable for the project.
Threads: The thinner the thread, the finer the final product will be. That is why we recommend that at least one of the threads, either in the bobbin or in the needle, should be cotton, which gives bulk to the lace and makes it look hand-made. Embroidery polyester thread will make very fine web-like lace.
Embroidery rayon thread is too soft, it does not keep its shape and very often its color fades under the influence of chemicals from the water-soluble mesh. We do not recommend rayon embroidery threads for this type of lace.
If you are using 50- or 60-weight cotton, you can use it both in the bobbin and in the needle. If you use 40-weight cotton thread for the needle, you can use regular polyester bobbin thread.
For this project we used Signature machine quilting cotton thread, both in the needle and in the bobbin. Similar threads from other companies should work just as well.
Needles: We use size 80/12 embroidery needles and 80/12 metallic needles. Our experience shows that cotton thread used with metallic needles gives less lint. The needles should be sharp, so it's advisable to change them after every project.
Tension of the thread: the high tension in the upper thread will make the lace tighter and it will shrink more when you wash out the stabilizer. If you want the lace piece to remain of the same size as the stitch-out, reduce the tension of the upper thread.
Most Importantly: ALWAYS make a test stitch-out of the designs and wash away the stabilizer. This helps you to select the threads, needles, stabilizers and settings of your machine correctly.
Step One: There are four embroidery files in the set - the "BattenInsertAR", "BattenInsertBR", "BattenInsertAL" and "BattenInsertBL". Embroider each file once.
Rinse the stabilizer, spread all parts neatly on a towel and leave to air dry.
Step Two: Thread a needle with the same thread with which you made the embroidery. Position the stitch-outs as shown. Hand sew the pieces together.
The finished size of the insert is 35 1/2" long. You can make it smaller, by washing the stabilizer out in warmer water, or sewing the ends under a back zipper.
The cuffs on this dress are from the FSL Battenberg Lace Collar and Cuff.
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